NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLES
BY STEVE ZUPPA
INTRODUCTION
The TERRAPENE species are a group of terrestrial turtles in the family
emydidae. Commonly referred to as box turtles, the genus only occurs in
North America (although the Asian turtles from Cuora and Pyxidea are also
called box turtles, but are unrelated to Terrapene). Of the 10 or so
species and subspecies, only six are seen in captive collections with some
regularity, and they are four of the T.carolina sp. and the two T.ornata sp.
Box Turtle, the common name applied to this group is appropriate, as
members of Terrapene have the ability to close their plastron (bottom shell)
tightly against the underside of their carapace (top shell), presenting
would-be predators with a "box" of hard shell and plates around the edible
body. Evidence of the effectiveness of this protection can be seen on the
turtles themselves- many wild collected specimens bear bite marks and
scratches along the shell. After unsuccessful attempts to get to the flesh,
many predators will discard the turtle and seek out an easier meal. When
the presence of danger is no longer sensed, a box turtle can then open its
shell and resume its routine with little damage. Young box turtles, however, are unable to use this defense. They are
instead less domed and more stream lined, adapted for a life of secrecy near water basins. Ages vary, but a box turtle may be 2-6 years old before the
hinged plastron is functional. Juveniles are shy and rarely stray into the open.
Although considered primarily "land dwellers", box turtles will
occasionally, and sometimes routinely seek a body of water in which to soak
for hours to even days. Some will even spend the hot weeks of summer in and
around pond shallows. Despite their fondness of water, box turtles are
generally poor swimmers, and can drown if water is too deep. The exception
to the rule is the coahuilan box turtles T. coahuilan, which is considered
semi aquatic.
Terrapene sp. have long been kept as pets, and even today they remain
popular and highly sought after. All fare well in captivity, provided the
proper conditions are met. Captives quickly accept their keepers as
non-threatening, and may actually come to enjoy such company. The genus is
equally suitable for beginner and advanced chelonian enthusiasts.
Identification, Ranges, and Natural History
The box turtles have a range extending much over the eastern and central
United States, and eastern Mexico. Throughout this range are 4 species and
many races.
Common Box Turtles Terrapene carolina
This specie is the inhabitants of eastern America, and is considered the
most sought after of the North American box turtles. Six races, also called
subspecies, are described for the specie.
Eastern Box Turtles T. c. carolina: This is the nominate form, and is also
the most variable patterned and formerly the most commonly available. It
ranges from Massachusetts west to Illinois, and south to Georgia.
Throughout the range, localities can be found from a variety of habitats,
including fields, forests, lake margins, and everything in between. The
carapace of adults is highly domed, and typically a brown, or black ground
color with a variable range of patterns, including but not limited to
reticulations, radiating lined, splotches, etc. It commonly attains sizes
up to 6.5 inches (16cm), and it has 4 toes on each hind foot. This race is
in my opinion the most adaptable and hardy and therefore most suitable for
captive conditions.
Gulf Coast Box Turtles T. c. major: The largest of all living box turtles,
this race can attain sizes exceeding 8 inches (20cm). It is very moisture
loving and is most often found near or in shallow bodies of water in its'
natural range, which includes the inside gulf coast region of western
Florida, and areas of southern Louisiana. The Florida localities are the
most pure form, and those found in Louisiana are most likely an intergrade
with three toed box turtles, but with much T. c. major influence. Gulf
Coast box turtles have no particular pattern of their own, but may
superficially resemble other races within the specie. Adults however, do
often time develop whitish or reddish markings on the face and forelimbs.
Florida Box Turtles T. c. bauri: The race is represented only in peninsular
Florida, and is perhaps the least commonly available of the U.S. varieties.
They are very similarly patterned to ornate box turtles, but are easily
identified by the natural range, highly domed carapace, and facial stripes.
Florida box turtles are another moisture loving race, and is found in wet
areas throughout its' range. Sizes of 6 inches (15cm) are common. It
usually bears only 3 toes on each hind foot.
Three Toed Box Turtles T. c. trunguis: These are the most commonly seen of
the eastern box turtle subspecies. They attain up to 6.5 inches (16cm) in
total length, and range throughout much of the central United States, from
the Mississippi River Valley west to Texas, and along the southern part of
the range, it extends as far eastward as Florida. Of all the T. Carolina
races, this is the one most likely to be found away from water bodies, and
prefers drier habitats than those previously mentioned. The pattern is
light radiating lines on an olive to brown ground color carapace. Males
often develop orange, red or yellow markings on the face and forelimbs.
Just because of the name, don't think that three toes on each hind foot are
the rule, as it may have four!
Mexican Box Turtles T. c. mexicana: Very similar to the three toed box
turtle in habits and appearance, is the Mexican box turtle, found throughout
North Eastern Mexico, especially near streams, and oases. Any in the hands
of hobbyists now are those remaining from the 1970's and 80's when the race
was imported, but is now rare in captivity however, because of the export
ban of Mexican fauna.
Yucatan Box Turtles T. c. yacatana: Found in the Yacatan peninsula and
Quintana Roo of Eastern Mexico, this is the rarest race of the specie, and
is found only in a few zoological collections. It has four toes on each
hind foot, and can attain sizes up to 5.5 inches (14cm).
Western Box Turtles Terrapene ornata
The two races of the ornate box turtles are the two most commonly seen in
collections both in America and Europe. They are the most dry tolerant of
all the box turtles, and are less adaptable to captivity than their eastern
counterparts.
Ornate Box Turtles T. o. ornata: This is the nominate form of the specie,
which ranges over much of the central United States, from Eastern Indiana to
eastern Texas and Louisiana. In this range, the race prefers irrigated
areas, and sandy spots in which to plow into and rest at night. It obtains
sizes up to 5.5 inches (14cm) and bears 4 claws on each hind foot. The
pattern is of radiating lines on an olive to brown ground colored carapace.
The carapace is also less domed on top than the other box turtle species,
and its' face and forelimbs are marked with yellow colorations.
Desert Box Turtles T. o. luteola: Similarly patterned to the ornate box
turtles, but with more radiating lines concentrating on each scute on the
carapace. This race inhabits the driest areas of all the box turtles,
ranging from western Texas, to Arizona and adjoining Mexico. Up to 6 inches
(16cm)
Spotted Box Turtles Terrapene nelsoni
These are the rarest in captivity of all the box turtles and are likely to
be seen in only a few advanced zoological collections. The carapace of both
races is an olive brown to brown color with numerous yellow spots. Adults
of T. n. nelsoni are up to 6 inches (16cm) and T. n. klauberi is slightly
smaller. The natural ranges are in north western Mexico.
We know little of this specie and it's care, but is probably similar to T.
ornata.
Coahuilan Box Turtles Terrapene coahuila
Only one race has been described for this specie. It was formerly extremely
rare in captivity, but in recent years, surplus production had spilled out
into the private hands of lucky individuals. Coahuilan box turtles are the
most aquatic members of the genus, and adults may attain lengths up to 6
inches (16cm). The carapace is usually horn colored and basically unmarked.
Hind feet bear four toes and are webbed. T. coahuila are found only in the
Cuatro Ciengas series of streams and water bodies in north eastern Mexico.
Choosing a Healthy Turtle and Where to Get It
If you have an opportunity to choose which box turtle you get, then consider
the following aspects……
Your climatic conditions-do you want to keep the turtle outdoors year round?
Some species are more sensitive than others. Is your local humidity high or
low? T.ornate has problems adapting to perpetually humid conditions an
T.carolina has trouble adapting to arid conditions.
Is the animal for breeding or pet purposes? Captive born animals are more
expensive but are more adaptable and usually less problematic than wild
caught animals. They also prove to be more tolerant of handling and are
less shy, resulting in more personable animals. The only advantage to
buying wild caught animals is that you will not have to wait the 4+ years it
takes for a hatchling to reach maturity.
In most cases, it is ideal to purchase a captive bred animal for obvious
reasons. Choose a reputable dealer and always remember that what you pay
for is what you get- if someone sells a cheap box turtle, then you aren’t
getting the top quality.
Why go Captive Bred?
Because wild caught box turtles are often plagued with internal parasites,
covered in ticks, and severely stressed. Most that enter the pet trade will
die after just a short period of time. The best and only alternative is
captive bred animals, which are healthier, more adaptable, more personable,
and in general, better pets.
Conservation
Years of over collecting for export, habitat destruction, pollution, high
way road kills, and increased predation on nests and hatchlings by foxes,
dogs, cats, skunks, etc has let to much lower populations than in the past.
Areas where once plentiful with box turtles are now finding them to be a
rare sight. The future for these majestic creatures looks grim and one day it may be
true that the only natural habitats left for Terrapene is in national parks.
It is up to captive breeding efforts to preserve the species for future
generations to come to enjoy.
Foods and Nutrition
As a rule, box turtles are omnivorous by nature. In captivity we must
duplicate this by offering a varied diet of assorted fruits, vegetables,
invertebrates, and animal matter. The ratio of vegetable to animal matter
is variable upon the species involved and the age at which the turtles are.
It is generally accepted that the T. carolina species factor the most
vegetation into their diet. T. ornata is more carnivorous, and T. coahuila
is almost entirely carnivorous. It is also common knowledge that hatchlings
and juveniles of all species and races eat more animal matter than the
adults. All this information must be factored in when preparing a dietary
plan.
Vegetable matter:
The base of any vegetarian meal for any reptiles should be made up of
varieties of feeds with a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 1:1 or greater.
Too much phosphorous in the diet can contribute to metabolic problems (see
health issues). The following are good items in which to offer:
Dark leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, mustard greens, collared greens,
etc. Do not offer ice burg lettuce as it has very little if any nutritional
value. Also remember that spinach can be offered only on occasion as
excessive amounts have been linked to kidney problems.
Broccoli stems and leaves (but not the florettes), carrot, and beet can be
boiled to soften and cooled and served. Alfalfa sprouts, mung bean, green
bean, pea pods, soy leaves, moistened alfalfa, dandelion greens and flowers,
clover, and hibiscus flowers are all good food items.
Fruits such as strawberries, black berries, raspberries, grapes, tomatoes,
apples, mango, peaches, paw paws and apricots are all eagerly accepted.
Offer banana and kiwi only on occasion because of its exceptionally high
phosphorous content. Oatmeal, can be moistened and left unsweetened and fed to the box turtles.
Rye bread is also a good food item.
Animal matter:
Even the most finicky of box turtles will quickly snap at some scurrying
crickets and worms. Adults and especially juveniles seem to enjoy the
pursuit of various insects, including crickets, grass hoppers, mealworms,
wax worms, super worms, red worms, night crawlers, caterpillars, etc. All
of these insects are available from your local pet shop or bait store, or
you can buy them bulk from numerous mail order companies.
Other forms of animal matter include freshly killed minnows, fish slabs,
beef heart, chicken meat and organs, and moistened high quality dog food.
One thing that I have found to be effective for providing animal proteins
and at a low cost is to buy chicken hind quarters from the local super
market. When on sale, they can be purchased in large bags at "next to
nothing", then I can boil the meat (chicken meat can be fed raw, but I
prefer to boil it as raw meat lures insects too quickly), divide into
portions and freeze for later use. By this method, all that is needed is
for me to take a portion out of the freezer, and let thaw out then serve to
the turtles.
Commercial diets:
Several commercial diets are now on the market, and are said to be
nutritionally complete, but should still not make up more than 50% of the
dietary intake of your box turtle. Many Terrapin will even snub the foods
and prefer to eat fresh meals instead.
Vitamin and mineral supplementation:
This is a subject of much controversy, and I have found that it is best to
dust food items with a good multi vitamin and calcium supplement once per
week. Do not provide a supplement with Vitamin D3 if your turtles are kept
under natural sunlight for more then 20 hours per week. The reason is
vitamin D3 can cause problems if given too excessively. This vitamin is
necessary for the proper absorption of calcium, and is synthesized by
reptiles and amphibians subject to UV rays which are given off by sunlight.
Box Turtle Housing
Housing for box turtles is variable and is the options are unlimited in
design as long as basic needs are met. For obvious reasons, those species
from drier habitats (i.e. t. ornata) will need drier micro climates than
those from wetter habitats (t.carolina).Just remember that terrapene species
are active animals requiring lots of space and clean conditions.
Indoor Housing
Indoor housing is necessary for the husbandry of young, sick, injured and
cold sensitive species during cool conditions. The indoor terrarium can be
simple or complex based on the keeper’s preferences. For example I
maintain my hatchlings in plastic hardware tubs measuring 2’ x 3’ x 8” with
a simple moss or moistened paper towel bedding.
All of the land dwelling species require similar enclosures and the
following guidelines apply to all species except T. coahuila. The only
variable is humidity and how wet the substrate is kept. Provide a water
dish large enough for the animals to sit in completely, but shallow and
easily accessible so the turtles do not drown. Box turtles of all species
will sit in water receptacles and soak for hours and even sometimes even
days. They also defecate in the water dishes so be prepared to change
often. As for substrate, you can use aspen bedding (but not cedar or pine), natural
earth, paper towels, sand, smooth river gravels, out door carpeting,
newspaper, moss, leaf litter, etc. How wet you keep the substrate depends
on the specie involved. For example, the eastern box turtles do better on
moistened bedding which raises the terraria humidity than the more arid
western box turtle species. The size of the terrarium depends on the size, temperament and number and
sex of the inhabitants. A simple 2’ x 3’ enclosure would easily house several young box turtles. The same are would only maintain a pair or trio
of tolerable adults, or a single aggressive adult. If more than one male is to be kept per enclosure the amount of space must be larger than if only a
single male were to be kept. The reasoning is because male box turtles
become aggressive towards each other during certain periods through out the
year. Be sure to provide visual barriers and hiding areas within the terrarium to
help reduce stress and keep the animals inside “happy” and comfortable.
Such places can be made using driftwood, log shelters available from pet
supply carriers, and even a small card board box with a hole cut in the side
will do.
Coahuilan box turtles require housing similar to other semi aquatic species
such as red ear sliders, painted turtles, cooters, etc. If you are lucky
enough to obtain a T. coahulia provide it a primarily aquatic terrarium with
a sizable land area. The water depth should be approximately as deep as the
turtle is long and the land area should be made easily accessible to allow
for basking, resting, etc.
Suspend basking lights over the land area and provide a filtration system.
Use a smooth river gravel substrate, and an aquatic plant or two will serve
as not only visual barriers but also a snack.
Heat and Lighting
Most box turtles are active and foraging at temperatures between 60 and 80F.
Temperatures below that will encourage resting and above that may cause
aestivation or a form of dormancy brought on by excessive temperatures.
Lighting in the form of a UV emitting full spectrum bulb should be provided.
Also provide a basking place over one side of the terrarium to allow the
animals to thermo regulate. It is important to keep one area of the
enclosure cooler than under the basking light to prevent dangerous over
heating.
Outdoor Housing
I feel that this is absolutely necessary for box turtles even if it can be
offered only a few months of the year. It is especially important for wild
caught animals in order to adapt to captivity, a process which may take many
months or even years. The period of time in which a pet reptile of any sort can be maintained
outdoors depends on your climate and the specie involved. At my location in Kentucky I am able to maintain my T. c. carolina colony outdoors for the
entire coarse of a year because they are native and will hibernate during
the cooler months. Gulf coast and Florida box turtles must be brought
indoors during the winter months however. Those living in warmer area such
as southern Florida would be able to keep any of the U.S. Terrapene Sp.
Outdoors year round without any problems. Cooler area such as New England
and southern Canada have a shorter period of time in which outdoor
maintenance is feasible. With this in mind we must design a terraria to
keep the ideal microclimate in which the particular specie requires.
A minimum size for an outdoor terrarium in 4’ x 8’. Using treated lumber
2x4s build a sturdy box like frame. To this frame attach a strong metal
mesh such as ˝”x˝”, or 1 inch hexagon netting (depending on the size of the
turtles to be kept inside) along the sides. The set up should be
approximately 3’tall. Affix a hinged wire lid to the top of this unit and
it will be ready for modifications to provide the ideal microclimate.
Remember to sink the walls of the terraria into the ground to a depth of at
least 1’, leaving 2’ of the unit extending above ground. To get in simply
open the lid and step over the walls. Inside be sure to provide a hide box, a sizeable but shallow and easily
accessible water receptacle, and a feed dish. You can also decorate with old tree stumps, a stone or 2, etc.
To establish a preferred habitat, look at the preferences of the specie in
mind and the climate you have. For example, in my climate which is rather
wet, I do not need to provide any further modifications for my t.c.carolina
specimens. For T.ornate however, it is necessary to cover the terrarium lid
with a tarp or metal sheets to keep out excessive rain. If you live in an
area that is excessively hot and dry (such as area of the American south
west) it is important to put the terrarium in a shady location. The more
moisture loving biotypes like t.carolina sp. would also benefit from having
a mister and sprinkler system installed in this type of climate.
If you want a more elaborate set up, then feel free to modify the units even
more or even design a whole new housing system. Just remember that the
walls need to extend below the ground surface or else some box turtles may
dig themselves out. Also remember that some specimens will easily scale a
wire mesh fence if a lid or overhang isn’t provided. Water and shaded areas
must be available at all times.
Hibernation
Hibernation is a period of dormancy brought on by cool temperatures and is
commonplace for all reptiles and amphibians from the more temperate areas
throughout the world. The eastern, three toed and most specimens of the
ornate biotypes will hibernate during the winter months. Other species and
races will also go dormant during the passage of cold fronts but not go into
a full hibernation. Many times, during late fall and winter even those box turtles kept indoors
and warm will try to “dig in” for a long seasonal rest period. They will stop eating and will become quite inactive for weeks or even months at a
time. If your box turtle exhibits this behavior, then you may want to
consider hibernating it. Below are some guide lines for natural and
artificial hibernation that you will need.
Natural Hibernation
This is most feasible with native biotypes. For example, I allow my eastern
box turtles to hibernate outdoors every year. Starting in October or
November, they will dig in to soft earth approximately 4 inched below
surface level. Atop the sleeping turtles I throw down several inched of
fallen leaves and straw, which insulates, keeps out the frost, and prevents
the ground from drying out. They remain in this state until March or April
when the warm spring rains draw them out. This method proves to work
equally well with three toed and ornate box turtles in the covered
terrariums.
Artificial Hibernation
Because of some of the potential problems associated with natural
hibernation (such as the dormant turtles being discovered by rats, etc),
many keepers with smaller collections utilize artificial methods to cool the
turtles. The most common method is to stop feeding the turtles 2 weeks before
entering them into dormancy and soaking them daily in warm water to
encourage defecation and complete digestion of food in the gut which could
possibly spoil and kill the animal. Then turn off all heating devices in
the terrarium and reduce the photo period to encourage the box turtles to
try to brumate. When the activity is obviously greatly reduced or absent, place the turtles
in a plastic container such as a Rubbermaid shoe box with holes drilled in the side. In this box should be some slightly moistened moss. Place the
lid on this and secure it tightly, then put it in a refrigerator set at 59F.
Though the box turtles inside may scratch around and seem restless, they
will calm down and enter the winter rest. Over the period of a week or
more, lower the temperature inside the refrigerator two degrees per day to a
low of 40-42F. After a month or two the temps should be slowly raised until
they reach 60F at which time the turtles can be removed from the
refrigerator and allowed to warm up to room temperature. At this time they
should begin to awaken and scratch around inside the box. Take the turtle
out and set it in room temperature water so it can drink and further awaken.
Remember to periodically check on the turtle through out hibernation and the
awakening period to ensure it does not dehydrate, or worse.
Why Hibernate?
A hibernation period is necessary for biotypes from cooler areas to become
fertile and encourage sexual activity which is directly after the cool down
period. Although many keepers say it is not, I have found it to be
necessary for many box turtles especially those which have been wild caught
to survive captive conditions. Keeping a turtle awake when it’s ready to go
dormant is stressful and results in low weight, un happy turtles. If it
wants to go dormant, then my philosophy is “let it”.
Breeding
Breeding members of Terrapene is generally unproblematic. After a winter
cooling period and period of reduced lighting (this will suffice for may
varieties) or hibernation (for biotypes from colder regions), the box
turtles become fertile and ready to mate. A male will usually circle the
female biting at her shell or legs until she becomes thoroughly “interested”
and allows for copulation, at which time the male mounts the female and
mates with her. Six to eight weeks later or so, the female will seek a sandy or area to
nest. She usually digs a flask shaped whole about 2 to 3 inched into the
soil and deposits her eggs numbering 1 to 8. Before laying, she may dig
several wholes called “false nests” for unknown reasons. It may be to deter
predators from an actual nest or maybe just be because the ground in this
area is not to her liking. After deposition, the female fills in the whole, and packs the ground on top
of it smooth using her carapace. In a natural setting the eggs would take 70 or more days to hatch, with some late season hatchlings actually over
wintering inside the nest. The sex at which the babies will be depends on the temperature at which the
eggs are incubated. Between 74 and 82 degrees, higher temps produce primarily females, while lower temps produce mostly males.
If you discover a box turtle nest, it is advisable to carefully remove them from the ground and bring them in for artificial incubation. Fresh nests
under 24 hours can be rolled without causing problems for the embryos. If the nest is more than a day old though, it is important not to turn or roll
the egg which may cause in the drowning of the embryo which attaches itself to the top of the egg. I recommend lightly marking an X the top of the eggs
with a pencil to ensure you do not roll them. Place the eggs in a plastic tub filled partly with moistened vermiculite.
Bury them approximately 2/3 into the material and put a lid with pin holes in it on the container. The lid should allow air to enter but should also
hold in moisture. If the eggs begin to dent or dry out, moisten the vermiculite further and this usually corrects the problem.
After 2 ˝ to 3 months the eggs should hatch into little box turtles. Don’t be alarmed if it takes a full day or even up to a week for the hatchlings to
fully emerge from the eggs. Just be sure they are kept moist and do not
dehydrate. After emerging from the eggs, the hatchlings should be moved to a sterile
terrarium with a moistened paper towel bedding. They will still have the
remnants of the egg yolk sac on them for several days. It is crucial this
does not get busted or does not dry out otherwise the turtle may be scared
or even killed. If it looks like the yolk sac is drying out, you may want
to gently apply a little bit of petroleum jelly to it. The hatchlings will survive the first few days on left over yolk and may not
feed for a period of time. Once this is absorbed, care for the babies as usual. They will soon begin to eat
voraciously and grow.
Common Ailments
Although very hardy and adaptable, box turtles can still develop problems.
The following describes some of the more common ailments and their
treatments. If even after treatments the ailments continue to worsen or if
new symptoms develop, it is advisable you take the animals to a qualified
veterinarian.
Swollen eyelids and/or peeling skin: this is often caused by acute vitamin A
deficiency. The problem occurs most often in young animals and those fresh
out of hibernation. The first indication is swollen eye lids. Advanced
cases result in peeling skin, inability to open eyes, and even death. If
caught early, oral doses of Vitamin A will usually fix the problems.
Advanced cases require Vitamin A injections to reverse the problems, but the
best medicine is preventative precautions, by offering a well balanced,
variable diet with proper supplementation.
Obesity: this is very common in adult box turtles and is apparent when the
animal becomes so obese it can no longer use its hinged plastron
effectively. By switching to a more lean diet and reducing the quantities.
Obesity can lead to respiratory, cardiovascular, and kidney and liver
problems if it is not taken care of.
Respiratory diseases: these are a common place when a western box turtle is
introduced to a humid climate, or when an eastern box turtle biotype is
introduced to a dry climate. Clogged or runny nostrils, wheezing, and
foaming around the mouth and nostril are common symptoms. The most common reason for respiratory problems is problems with humidity and temperatures.
By isolating the animal and correcting these problems, the ailment should correct itself.
Other problems may also cause respiratory problems including infections, which require more advanced treatment in the form of antibiotics.
Tetracycline or terrifying given at the amount of 10mg/kg every day for 1 week. If the animal doesn’t improve, take it to a vet.
Ticks: This is another common problem related to wild caught reptilians.
Small ticks may be seen in between the scales or in other soft parts of the
box turtles. Using a commercially available ectoparasite spray, mist the
animal and use tweezers to pick off any dead ticks or any that aren’t
killed. Be sure to also get the head out with the tick as well.
Endoparasites: This includes intestinal worms, coccidian, nematodes, amoebas
etc. Endoparasites are very prominent in wild caught animals and are easily
spread throughout all other animals in the terrarium with the infected
specimen. Ask your veterinarian what he/she recommends as different
parasites will require different treatments.
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LIKE THIS CARE SHEET? KEEP WATCH AS I WILL HAVE A BOOK ON NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLES COMING OUT VERY SOON.